Donuz

From nuts and chips to lasagna, mashed potatoes and ravioli, the concept of aperitivo did evolve adamantly. Being a top-notch reason for socializing in Milan, the concept of aperitivo slowly disappears at every incremental mile towards south. In fact, in Sicily, apart from “posh” hotels or resorts, it is really difficult to find a place for happy hour. The best one can get is cheap nuts, salted chips and maybe pickles.

What makes Milanese aperitivi different from its counterparts in the south probably has a lot to do with the diversity of the Milanese population. After Florence and Bologna, Milan is one of the major student cities of Italy. It is also the most industrial city. Aperitivi serve as occasions for a quick sip of something and quick bite of another thing for the young professionals of this trendy city. In fact, it is not uncommon for the hip and young consultants of world-wide companies to stop for a little break at 7 or 8, only to pick up from where they had left off afterwards. Certainly, it is equally likely for the students to meet after school for a convenient stand-up dinner at legitimate prices.

Apertivi function like this: At a fix price for a beverage (alcoholic or non-alcoholic), one can eat without any limits from an open buffet. Then the question remains, where does one go for a taste of this modern-day Milanese tradition?

No place around the old city center, Duomo, will satiate your appetite or enchant your eyes with a scene of the local life, except for Straf, Via San Raffale 3. The bar of the famous design hotel of Milan is frequented by the fashionable locals for an afternoon treat. The food is still limited in variety and varies in quality. Straf features special music events every Tuesdays and Thursdays.

Still, I would recommend to walk away from the Duomo to the purely artistic, yet also fashionable Brera region. This luxury Bohemian region of Milan is also oddly reminiscent of the stone paved streets of old Romanian cities. Brera is filled with open-air coffee shops, cafes, boutiques, home-made pastry shops, salumerias and wineries. One could pick any open-air cafe for an afternoon aperitivo, but for a more trendy look -but no food- try out the Radetzky at the corner of the Moscova metro station. Young professionals love this place.

For those, who are interested in substituting their dinner with an aperitivo, Iguana is the place (Via Papa Gregorio XIV, 16). From cold platters to various hot dishes -pasta, lasagna and risotto- there is a lot to eat and a lot to choose from. It gets very crowded after 7.30, therefore seating may be a problem.

Fitzgeraldo in Porta Romana is a red-carpet, fancy place for aperitivo.

Volo on Viale Bligny 39 is frequented by Bocconi students. Once again, the food quality and variety is very good, however there will a marked difference in the atmospherics of the Bligny street when compared with the more historic and romantic Brera.

Roialto on Via Piero della Francesca, 55 in zona Sempione has a posh setting with a huge chandelier hanging from its top; however the food here is limited despite the tradition. Arranged into sections of pasta, meat, fish, cheese, fruit and appetizers the food is served by a waiter in very small quantities.

Diana of the Sheraton Diana Majestic, Viale Piave 42 is another posh place for aperitivo. Dress up a little bit, be ready for a bit of noise and crowds, and enjoy yourself in the heart beat of this posh place.

Last, but not the least, is Cafe Noon in Cadorna… Walking out from the entry to the Malpensa Express at the Cadorna train station, Noon Cafe is right at the corner, Via Boccaccio. This is one of the popular places for aperitivi, and as it is in a busy neighborhood of businesses, it is often frequented by the young professionals. The regular dishes of Noon Cafe are cold salmon sashimi, cheese, poppers, and little pizzas. If it is your lucky day, you will be served risotto and meatballs in very small platters as well.

Remember, that despite their slim looks Italians eat frequently. After an aperitivo from 7.00 pm to 9.00 pm, it is not uncommon to head for a 3 course dinner. So, watch your mouth and budget!